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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.